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Re: '74 VW 1303
Posted: 30 Jul 2014, 20:45
by Tine
Gre za premaz, ki zagotavlja ustrezno mazalno zaščito v začetnih obratih motorja, kjer še ni ustreznega mazanja z oljem, stične površine so pa še 'nevsedene' in je trenje zaradi tega še toliko agresivnejše. V mojem primeru gre za Red Line Syntetic pasto, ta pride zraven odmične v kompletu. Če bo svojo nalogo uspešno opravila, pa bomo videli po začetni proceduri, kar pomeni 20 minut začetnega uležavanja pri 2000 obratih TAKOJ po tem ko motor prvič kresne. Pomojem mi ni potrebno posebej razlagat da mi že samo misel na ta postopek že zdaj cota živce?

Re: '74 VW 1303
Posted: 30 Jul 2014, 22:28
by croma_man
parat ga je treba od začetka, da mu pokažeš kdo je tukaj šef !
Re: '74 VW 1303
Posted: 31 Jul 2014, 12:03
by Tine
Tako nekako ja, treba drevo spipat dok je še mlada
Re: '74 VW 1303
Posted: 31 Jul 2014, 14:15
by eugene
kako olje misliš točit? Boš nabavljal kak brad penn ali kaj drugega z dovolj ZDDPja ali mogoče vsaj kak ZDDP aditiv da bo odmična preživela ali? Mislim da ima STPjev aditiv za olje ZDDP notri.
Tu imaš od mobil tabelo kolko ima Fosforja in ZDDPja. Se pravi Mobil 1 15W-50 in Mobil 1 Racing bi bli primerni.
https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mo ... _Guide.pdf
Za une ki ne vejo o čem je govora.
Contrary to the current internet buzz that diesel oil is the oil to use in a gasoline flat tappet cam engine, the correct oil to use on a continuous basis in your classic car's flat tappet cam engine is an oil designed for gasoline engines that contains the correct level of ZDDP anti-wear protection. Similarly, a race oil is not recommended for continued use in a street driven gasoline engine.
If you look on the back of a bottle of oil you will see the API performance classification for the oil. Diesel oils with API credentials of CI-4, CI-4 Plus, CJ-4 will typically have Zinc levels around 1100 parts per million (ppm). For a flat tappet cam gasoline engine with moderate valve spring pressures (such as a flat head engine) the generally accepted minimum level of protection is 1200 to 1300 ppm of Zinc. For muscle cars and hot rods with higher valve spring pressures, 1600 ppm will give uncompromised protection. Race cars generally need around 2000 ppm. Break-in of a new cam is generally best protected with around 2500 ppm (in addition to the molybdenum cam lobe lube). Current API SM/ILSAC GF-4 gasoline engine oils have incredible performance capabilities and will have approximately 850 ppm of Zinc, but will need to be supplemented with ZDDP to make them suitable for use in flat tappet cam engines in classic cars, hot rods and race cars. It is extremely important to add a highly concentrated ZDDP product so as not to dilute the oil and thus impact the performance integrity of the engine oil.
Here are the differences between diesel engine oil and gasoline engine oil. In a modern diesel engine there is substantial exhaust soot contamination that the engine oil must contend with. Diesel oil is designed with much higher levels of detergency and dispersency to fight the soot contamination. Like ZDDP anti-wear chemistry, detergents are a surface active chemistry and compete directly for space on metal surfaces, such as the cam lobe and lifter face. So, in practice, the effective level of Zinc anti-wear is a bit lower than what we expect it to be based solely on chemical analysis. Additionally, the ZDDP that is generally used in diesel formulas is primary ZDDP (which activates at higher engine temperatures) since a diesel engine runs predominantly at operating temperature. In a gasoline engine, we must have both primary and secondary ZDDP (which activates at lower temperatures) since the engine will experience a significant number of cold starts. Also, the viscosity modifier polymers that are used in multi-viscosity engine oil to prevent viscosity loss at operating temperature (to protect the bearings) are different for diesel oil and gasoline oil. Diesels operate at essentially the same rpm all day long and need polymers that are shear stable to protect the bearings. Gasoline engines experience many large ranges of rpm during operation and require polymers that have both shear stability and thickening efficiency capability to protect the bearings.
Race oil formulas are typically designed with reduced levels of detergency and dispersency to improve performance of the anti-wear and friction modifier chemistries. Race oil is typically changed very frequently and race engines are typically re-built frequently. For a street driven gasoline engine, the correct levels of detergency and dispersency are required to prevent deposit formation (particularly at the piston rings), and sludge formation, from contaminants. This becomes more important to classic car owners who may only drive the vehicle occasionally and who change the oil once or twice a year.
Re: '74 VW 1303
Posted: 31 Jul 2014, 15:05
by Tine
Zaj tak je, nazadnje ko smo se vidli je Kramar povedal da ima uvoženega nekaj Brad Penna, pa menda ga lahko dobi še več če se ga potrebuje. Če se ne motim tudi cena ni bila neka morilska, tako da v kolikor bo možnost ga bom po začetnem ulaufanju z nekim pocenšek oljem probal enkrat pa videl kako in kaj. Po drugi strani, Vlado je na taki odmični fural navadna olja iz trgovin, pa njegov motor pri prek 60k km menda še vedno veselo brca. Res je sicer, da on naj nebi imel dvojnih ventilfeder in s tem manj nasilno dogajanje med dročniki in odmično, pa vendar.
Re: '74 VW 1303
Posted: 31 Jul 2014, 21:22
by Rifasiemp
Drugace mam pa se js en zinc aditiv doma

uvozen iz usa

js sm ga dodajal navadnem 15-50 motulu pa se je ok obnesl

Re: '74 VW 1303
Posted: 31 Jul 2014, 22:13
by pero27
tako, ja, cink daj v olje pa je (no, sej ena pikica ga je v vsakem) ker ubistvu cink prepreči drgnenje jekla na jeklo, ko se prekine oljna plast (na dročnikih stalen dogodek, če maš dvojne fedre še tolk bolj) ker se nardi film tega cinka na obleh jeklenih površinah
Re: '74 VW 1303
Posted: 09 Aug 2014, 10:01
by Tine
Stvari se sicer vlečejo dlje kot bi si človek želel, se pa razvijajo in morda, res morda se že vidi luč na koncu tunela. Zgodba se nadaljuje s stojinimi vijaki za glave, ki so se srečali z blokom. Na vsaki strani jih je osem, katerih pa je bila zaradi notranje pobrušenosti bloka za daljši hod ojnic potrebna previdna inštalacija, da ne bi pretirano pogledale v notranjost bloka in s tem bile napoti glavni gredi. No biggie, pa tudi loctite je moj prijatl.
Za hecnost sem bate vrgel na tehtnico, tole je rezultat. Spet, vsi štirje so bili skupaj s sorniki in klipsnami v okolici razlike treh gramov, kar je dovolj znotraj fabriških 8g tolerance. Nasplošno moram pohvalit AA Performance robo, glede na to da je še kar budget varianta med performance kosi, so me do sedaj presenetili s kvaliteto in preciznostjo izdelave. Upam da me ne razočara med delovanjem
Sčiščeni, batni obročki nastavljeni na Mercedesov znak, naoljeni in pripravljeni za sestavo
Ko je prvi padel na gred in je sornik penetriral skozi ojnico sem bil precej vesel
..a to razpoloženje je trajalo točno natanko en potisk cilindra do svojega končnega mesta, nakar se je pokazala veselica
Ja, bat pogleda skozi cilinder, in ker ne gre za hemi glave, je to svojevrsten dizaster. Začasen, seveda! Angleži na pomoč, teden kasneje so bili tukaj distančniki. Ne kr eni, ampak natančno dimenzionirani na svojih 2.25mm, s katerimi sem po nekaj malega vihtenja šublera in par enačbah srednješolske matematike naračunal 8,9:1 točke kompresije, kar je v tarčnem razponu med 8.5:1 in 9:1, katerega si želi Englova w120 odmična.
Par stiskov tube s tesnilno maso in so našli svoje mesto v objemu cilindra
Muchos betteros!
Čeznje sem z velikim veseljem poveznil še glave, jim dodal plehce za hlajenje, štoslrore in jih privil na svoje mesto po specificiranem navoru.
Dame in gospodje, predstavljam vam - Rumfmotor.

Re: '74 VW 1303
Posted: 09 Aug 2014, 11:33
by DS71
bravo ..sam zašpila naj še ..in seveda dolgo špila
Sam pa je enih tehničnih detajlov

A glede na to da dobiš distančne podložke točno u mero,je potem pogost pojav da pogledajo bati iz cilindra ?
Re: '74 VW 1303
Posted: 09 Aug 2014, 13:34
by Tine
Načeloma se ti distančniki uporabljajo za podlaganje cilindrov ob uporabi gredi z daljšim hodom, saj se dobijo gredi od (serijska 69mm) 74, 76.6 za uporabo z A bati (serijskih mer) in 78, 82, 84 za uporabo B batov - ti majo sornik višje, pa tudi izbire ojnic in njihove dolžine. Bat pogleda ven v primeru da se zmotiš pri izbiri komponent ali pa zaradi odjema materiala pri obdelavi bloka, kar se je zgodilo pri meni.