Mercedes 300TE

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$küll
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Re: Mercedes 300TE

Post by $küll » 24 Feb 2018, 12:50

treba preverit kako injektorji špricajo, ziher kašen ne dela lepe meglice...
zaverho
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Re: Mercedes 300TE

Post by zaverho » 24 Feb 2018, 14:23

Injektorji so novi. To ne bo.
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$küll
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Re: Mercedes 300TE

Post by $küll » 24 Feb 2018, 16:57

kako pa zgleda ta minimum? ce imas pumlico za minimum jo je treba očistit v benzu. preglej oz še boljše kar zamenjaj vse tamale vakum cevke.
zaverho
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Re: Mercedes 300TE

Post by zaverho » 24 Feb 2018, 17:25

Cevke so vse zamenjane, to sem najprej naredil, pol zamenjal injektorje, spucal lopute, stestiral lambdo. Nove svečke, kabli, razdelilna kapa. Kompresija je bila pri zadnjem merjenju dobra.

Ogret laufa na 700, z rahlim plavanjem (ki je bolj slišno, kot vidno na cagerju).

Se po koluarjih govori, da si mel ti tud velik opravka z isto cevasto zverjo? :P
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$küll
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Re: Mercedes 300TE

Post by $küll » 24 Feb 2018, 18:24

ja na srečo sem imel.

dobi podatke o pritiskih goriva za k jet za ta motor in potem preveri če je primeren. preveri če je benz pumpa taprava, in kolko je štandgas po tovarniških specifikacijah. 700rpm se mi zdi malo vsaj za 100rpm, lahko pa da je tako ok ker je 6cyl...
malinuc
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Re: Mercedes 300TE

Post by malinuc » 25 Feb 2018, 17:05

zadnič sem se hecal z enim 230 GE, ko so sodelavci ugotovili da bo problem v razdelilni glavi goriva. ene 15 krat daj kotakt pa polni gas, pa boš videl če ti do injektrojev pride enaka količina goriva. V mojem primeru je bla na dobri glavi okrog 50ml (4cilindrski motor). Potem sem sčistil glavo pa nastavil količino na vseh 4 z imbusi na enako, še mal nastavil mešanico na zgornji loputi pa zdej vsaj dela avto :D
zaverho
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Re: Mercedes 300TE

Post by zaverho » 10 Mar 2018, 13:42

Še ena alineja na seznamu za zimo 2017/2018 je prečrtana:
Obnova zarjavelega nosilca kljuke za prikolico.

Image

Namontirano pa se ne da pofotkat :lol:
zaverho
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Re: Mercedes 300TE

Post by zaverho » 09 Apr 2018, 22:35

Sam en projekt met je baje sam za babe, tko da tapravi deci šraufamo več stvari naenkrat. :crazy:

Avto se mi je pregrel, ker je mel pokvarjeno visko sklopko ventilatorja in sumljiv termostat - posledica je bila skrivljena glava in bel dim. Veliko njega :lol:

Tko da sem se lotu menjave dihtunge in ravnanja glave.

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razstavljanje

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spucano za cinkanje

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sestavljen sesalni kolektor in vbrizg

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zrihtana glava, menjal sem teflone, kriva je bla za desetinko. Vodila pa so bila še dobra.

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glava nazaj na mestu

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sestavljena mašina

Pa tako kot vedno se je stvar ustavila zaradi neumnega detajla: Čakam en oring za hladilni sistem - da lahko dokončam delo in vidim, če sem sploh kaj naredu :)

Jutr bi moral prit, pol pa na cesto! Če bo sreča.
zaverho
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Re: Mercedes 300TE

Post by zaverho » 22 Apr 2018, 17:37

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Avto je na cesti :) No tu je pred kontejnerjem, pa fotkam z bedno kamero od telefona, ampak vseeno.

Po menjavi dihtunge in servisu einšprica je crkoval na štantgasu, ne vedno in brez prave logike. Pri temu sistemu je kar problem najti krivca, ker pri nastavljanju mešanice sodeluje cca 10 senzorjev in računalnik sam kompenzira, če kaj ni v redu.

Tako sem se vrgel v študij na internetu in prebral kar precej člankov in postov o nastavljanju in iskanju napak v sistemu. Preveril sem vse senzorje in vrednosti so odgovarjale predpisanemu.

Na koncu sem tudi s $küllovo pomočjo ugotovil, da je krivec v napačno nastavljeni mešanici na glavi einšprica - nekaj, kar naj se sploh ne bi nastavljalo. Pri zadnjem servisu so slabo nataknili gumijasto majšeto na sesalni kolektor in je vleklo ekstra zrak not, kar so gladko pokompenzirali z bogatejšo mešanico - jasno, da se je potem sistemu mešalo :roll: :lol:

Je pa stvar enostavno nastavit z multimetrom med 2 in 3 pinom diagnostičnega priključka x11 na levi strani. Napetost (ki mora nihat, ker je v nasprotnem primeru lambda umrla) odraža tako imenovani duty cicle - višja kot je napetost, več je v mešanici bencina.

PRVO MERJENJE
duty cicle: 24% - 31% / napetost 9.4 - 10.3V / napetost sistema 13.5V PREBOGATA MEŠANICA

DRUGO MERJENJE
/ 10-11V / 13.93V ŠE BOLJ BOGATA MEŠANICA

PO NASTAVITVI
45% - 55% / 6.2-7.3V / 13.93V

SPECIFIKACIJA
45% - 55% / 6.1 - 7.4V / 13.5V

NASTAVITEV:
V LEVO - bolj revna mešanica
V DESNO - bogatejša mešanica


Sledil pa sem tem navodilom:

1. Remove air cleaner and unscrew the cover of the diagnostic socket on the fender (on the fuel/ignition box there).
2. Set the meter for duty cycle and put the red probe in the #3 hole and the black probe in the #2 hole in the diagnostic socket.
3. Switch ignition on but do not start engine. Should read 70%.
4. Start engine. Duty cycle will be 50% until the oxygen sensor warms up, at which point it will go way down to 30% or less if you are running rich and the electronics are working. Let the car idle and heat up to 80C.
5. When the computer is controlling the mixture, it will read something other than 50% and will change all the time. At this point, you can use a 3mm Allen wrench to adjust the mechanical fuel mixture at the fuel distributor. Insert Allen, then press down GENTLY to engage the key in the screw. Don't press very hard, you will shove the mass flow sensor flap down and add extra fuel.
6. Clockwise is richer, Counter clockwise is lean, only turn in SMALL amounts.
7. Turn the Allen slowly and release the pressure, then wait a bit to see where the reading goes. At idle it will take 10 sec or so for the change to show up, and if you get carried away, you will have trouble getting the correct reading.
8. Adjust in small increments, 1/16 turn or so at a time, until you get a reading close to 50% duty cycle. This should set the EHA current at close to 0, giving you proper fuel mixture control.
9. Now, the fun starts. If you cannot obtain anything but 50% duty cycle with no changes, the O2 sensor is bad or unhooked (connector is under the floor mat in front of the passenger side front seat). If it changes, but you cannot set it to 50%, something else is wrong.
10. You should get momentary enrichment (lower duty cycle %) when you open the throttle, going back to 50% quickly. If you get the opposite, you probably have a bad mass air flow potentiometer, so the computer doesn't get signaled you opened the throttle.
11. Your car should now be around 45-55%. Now rev the motor up to around 2500rpm and it should be 10 less then your idle number %. If not, you need to re-adjust the EHA.
12. The EHA is a small black box located on the side of the fuel distributor. There is a screw in the middle that needs removed and a 2mm Allen key is required. Counter Clockwise is leaner, clockwise is richer.
13. If your car is running say 25% at 2500rpm turn it counter clockwise (to lean it out), if it's like 70% turn it clockwise (to richen it up). It doesn't take much, turn it ONLY A 1/8 AT A TIME. I have mine set to 45%-50% at idle, 38%-40% running at 2500rpm.
14. Get it right and you won't believe how much happier your car is. You have to play with it though cause my numbers won't match yours.

Pa še duty cicle proti voltaži za lažjo orientacijo, če bo komu pomagalo.

0% - 13.5V
10% - 12.15V
20% - 10.8V
30% - 9.45V
40% - 8.1V
50% - 6.75V
60% - 5.4V
70% - 4.1V
80% - 2.7V
90% - 1.4V

Merjenje pa zgleda precej preprosto:
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Dosežena idealna vrednost:
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Občutek pri vožnji je občutno boljši, pospeševanje je zvezno, štantgasa se lepo drži. :thumbup:
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kontejner
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Re: Mercedes 300TE

Post by kontejner » 22 Apr 2018, 22:05

:thumbup:
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